West coast, Church point
Ok so been here two days now. Been surfing church point in the mornings and had it mostly to myself!! Water temp is 27 degrees! Its like bath water. Surfing without a wetsuit is the best feeling in the world. Although my ribs are badly bruised!
So, Church point. It’s a fast right hander that breaks over a beautiful reef. If you take off on the left you enter very shallow water and I wouldn’t advise it! Annoyingly the right is mainly about the first section. This is due to the fact your surfing within a natural beauty reserve so they have marked out a huge square with buoys all attached by a thick rope. This means you have to either end your ride before you hit them or if your good enough throw a huge air over them ;) For now I’m sticking to bailing off just before!
I can’t believe how empty its been. I’m guessing down south is a different story but for now I’m very happy to have any wave I want! Millions of pics have been taken both from the beach or the new go pro camera. Should have some videos soon too!
So here are the first few pictures. Some are taken from the beach and some from a GoPro stuck to the nose of my board.
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