Friday 20 January 2012

Day 16, Maycocks

Maycocks

Drove north today in search of waves and it was clear most people were heading to Maycocks. Its quite a scramble down to the beach. Well I say beach, theres a bit of sand visible between the grass bank and the ocean. People were sunbathing on the grass and it's a great view for spectators. Also a great view whilst surfing!! Unspoiled back drop. Well nearly. A small cement factory is on the right hand side lol. You forget that after a few waves ;) 

The waves itself is mainly a long, fast right hander. Though a few lefts crept through and if you had a good eye for it you could pick one off. The hardest part of the whole thing is wading out to the surf! The coral is like a bed of knives, then theres volcanic rock. You have to wait for one the of the larger waves to wash over and jump in as it sweeps back out. All the while keeping your eyes peeled for rocks and Spiky coral. My feet are bleeding slightly as I type. 






 Good effort. 



I had a go at knee boarding.






 Spiky coral!!!



Thursday 19 January 2012

Day 15, Tropicana finally working!

Tropicana

It's been the best part of two weeks but finally, here are pics of Tropicana working. It's 3-4ft and utter perfection. 
















This is a guy running of the beach into the shore break!!!



Wednesday 18 January 2012

Dy 14, OUCH!!!

Just forgot to do my back....


In other news... Tried Knee boarding today! My Dad is a knee boarder and I decided to try out his board. It was amazing! You could take of so late and still make it everytime. You drop in and drag your arm through the face and it pulls you right into the pocket and if the waves good enough, right into the barrel. Gotta find me a cheap knee board!

Tuesday 17 January 2012

Day 12, Freights Longboard session!

Freights.

Today was so random and so lucky. Spent the morning viewing Concorde in a hanger at the airport. On the way back we just thought we'd swing by Freights and take in the view. We got there and saw perfect little waves. I didn't fancy short boarding such small waves so I hired a beast! A 10ft long Fluid Juice single fin. All the way from Padstow, Cornwall would you believe? This battleship was heavy and beaten but I couldn't wait to get out there anyway. It turned into one of the best Long board sessions I have ever had! As the hours ticked by the waves got bigger and better. So Happy right now! Time for Pizza and beer!


Look at the board... I'm just like "Yea..."



So pleased with this floater!! 
 Couldn't resist this on one of the small inside waves

 Just needed to tuck in! So annoying I didn't manage it!




 And again!! Shoulda tucked!!





Monday 16 January 2012

Day 2, Tropicana

Tropicana




I've only seen this working once so far, Its a really fun looking left with a consistant barreling section. Again like church point its pretty shallow. Bodyboarders are loving it out there. Looks like a fast drop and quite heavy to start with. Then easing off leaving you a good face to calve up. The break is 50 yards off the beach so the perfect spot for your lady to sit and snap some shots ;) ( Cheeky i know) 



Day 10, Freights Bay



Freights Bay
Type
Occasionally barreling 
Direction
left hand 
Suitable for
Intermediate 
Lenght of ride
100-200 meter lenght 
Crowds
Fairly empty mid week. Crowded weekends
Localism
Not found here 
Best wind direction
north  
Tide
all 
Hazards
Description
Excellent waves best describe Freights Bay on the southern tip of the island. If the wind is coming in from the north then this spot is going off! The place is great for beginners as well as expert surfers. There are steps to go down a cliff with your gear and limited beach area, so just take the essentials. The cliff will give you an optimal view of the conditions and is a great place to chill after riding. We surfed over the weekend and crowds were a problem but during the week it is apparently quieter. There is also lots of space and multiple peaks so you can always find your own.